the ice is right

Meagan Taylor

How a family of five and a town of 800 host one of the world's most famous ice climbing festivals.

Moisture-laden clouds hover lazily among the craggy peaks encompassing the tiny town of Ouray, Colorado. It's a damp, mid-October morning on the western slope, and while the crisp chill of fall and saturated streets might depress sun-loving Denverites, the dreary weather generates a certain buzz in this mountain town.

Like those in most alpine communities that lack a trademark ski resort, Ouray's seasonal residents head to warmer and ostensibly more profitable locales as aspen leaves start to fall. But the "Switzerland of America," so dubbed for its Victorian structures neatly situated at the base of the majestic San Juans, has a frosty secret up its sleeve.

The Ouray Ice Park is the only one of its kind in the world. It pumped four million dollars into the town's economy last year and sees 200 "“ 300 climbers each weekend. Built in the mid-"˜90s by a core of community volunteers using donated plumbing equipment, the park now boasts 190 climbing routes stretching two miles along the Uncompahgre River Gorge.

At the center of the action is an unassuming family of five: Erin Eddy, Melissa Rajkowski and their three children. Besides working as full-time brokers in the competitive mountain realty market and raising a young family, the couple manages the ice park. They spend much of each year devotedly organizing the main event: the three-day Ouray Ice Festival, which draws more than 2,000 climbers, curious spectators and eager outdoor gear vendors. Oh, and the pair just launched a mountain trail race to support local recreation for kids.

"The year never really stops for the festival or the park," says Eddy, who serves as executive director. Mid-summer, he spends a week in Salt Lake City at the annual outdoor gear expo to hit up 60 major vendors such as North Face, Marmot, Patagonia and Arc'teryx for sponsorships and funding. Scheduling climbing clinics and pursuing professional climbers across the globe follows suit.

"I have a pretty full spreadsheet," he says with a grin, looking the epitome of relaxation as he sits back in his living room chair and fiddles with his Blackberry. He keeps one watchful eye on his five-year-old daughter, Caeley, who is playing in the kitchen.

"The clinics are the most difficult part," Eddy says of the more than 80 interactive classes for climbers held during the festival. Taught by high-profile athletes such as Kitty Calhoun, Will Mayo, Steve House and Malcolm Daly, they cover the gamut from setting anchors for first-timers to advanced lead and mixed climbing.

Rajkowski also is occupied long before the first ice is "farmed" in the gorge. As director of merchandise and membership, she orders souvenir hats, t-shirts and water bottles as well as recruiting members and local sponsors. This year, the park will have its first official map detailing all the route locations, including 12 fresh routes and the new "Got Stump" area in lower gorge, which promises more mixed and early season climbs.

On top of their ice park duties, the couple works together at one of Ouray's main real-estate offices. Eddy credits his partner with keeping him sane. "She is the calm one" he says, nodding toward Rajkowski. "I appear calm on the surface, but she keeps me balanced."

"We have stepped on each other's toes, but we are a pretty good sounding board for each other," Rajkowski adds while trying to safely release 18-month-old son Carson, who has managed to wiggle out of her athletic arms.

The kids embody the adventurous spirit of their parents, whether it's climbing a technical route on nearby Mt. Sneffels for Caeley and eight-year-old Keegan or a family road trip to Las Vegas. "When I watch these guys, they are at their best outside," Rajkowski says with a glowing smile.

She and Eddy credit a few years of practice and the support of their community with maintaining balance in their lives. "We really have a family of 800 people."

That extended family, the community that built the park, is still essential to its success. During the festival, some 200 volunteers shovel snow, set anchors and ropes, direct spectators, assist vendors, pour beer, judge the competitions and even perform rescues. While deploying an army of volunteers may be a logistical nightmare, their experience is paramount.

"They return every year and usually do the same thing they did last year, and you have to trust them to do that," Rajkowski says. "It's crisis management in the prevention sense."

That's a plus, considering the principal festivities consist of people hacking their way up frozen waterfalls, dangling a hundred feet over the boulder-strewn river. "It's a mental issue going down in there," Rajkowski says of the gorge, though she continued climbing even while pregnant with Carson. "I climbed until my harness didn't fit anymore," she says.

For those less inclined to descend into the icy chasm, the Kids Wall offers friendlier beginner terrain. In fact, the Kids College has become a premier family event, growing 200 percent last year. "We are reaching more people every year, especially those outside the hard-core climber," Rajkowski says.

While the elite competition gets a bit less traditional every year "” 2008's route had climbers swinging from rock walls to wooden barrels "” perhaps it is the variety of ingredients both in and outside the sport that perpetuates the festival's popularity.

This year, Eddy is anticipating a three-legged climbing race, the annual axe-throwing competition and the slackline walk across the gorge. Each evening, festivities move downtown with slideshows by local climbers, live gear auctions and late-night parties, offering an endless flow of beer, frivolity and a chance to mingle with world-class climbers.

"It's one of those things you have to see at least once," says Rajkowski, as she puts Carson down for a nap, so she can pack for a climbing trip to Moab. "It's an experience you can't get in Denver."

The 2009 Ouray Ice Festival is January 9 "“ 11, ourayicefestival.com.

Have an Ice Visit

Our picks if you decide to go

Lodging

The Ouray Chalet Inn

510 Main St.

800.924.2538

ouraychaletinn.com

Dining

The Outlaw Restaurant

610 Main St.

970.325.4366

outlawrestaurant.com

Backstreet Bagel & Deli

524 Main St.

970.325.0550

Shopping

Mouse's Chocolates

520 Main St.

877.793.7447

mouseschocolates.com

Ouray Glassworks & Pottery

619 Main St.

800.748.9421

ourayglassworks.com

R&R

Ouray Hot Springs Pool

1220 Main St.

970.325.7073

ourayhotspringspool.com

Orvis Hot Springs (Lodging and Massage)

1585 County Road No. 3, Ridgway

970.626.5324