Denver Magazine / July 2010 / Antioxidant Primer

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Antioxidant Primer

How to find antioxidant formulations that really work for your skin.

We hear about how wonderful antioxidants are for our health all the time; they’re advertised on our sports drinks and touted in our food. And nearly every skincare aisle in stores these days seem to have the word sprinkled liberally among the packaging. But how many of us really know what they do?

By definition, antioxidants are chemical compounds or substances that inhibit oxidation — the process by which oxygen interacts with other molecules. Oxidation manifests in any number of different ways, such as rust on your car and spoilage of fruit. When it comes to your skin, it often contributes to the appearance of aging. The science tells us antioxidants can protect cells from oxidative stress that results from a wide range of factors, such as ultraviolet radiation from the sun, air pollution, medications, and cigarette smoke.

So can antioxidants in skin-care products make us look better? Yes and no. You need to be an informed consumer to know if you are purchasing an effective product. Some work, but many do not. Products containing antioxidants must be formulated with more than one; antioxidant compounds work as a team. A few simple tips can guide your quest for optimum skin health. 

Vitamin E only helps prevent photo aging, which is caused by UV exposure, when formulated with another antioxidant. I recommend topical formulations, including SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic and SkinMedica Vitamin C Plus E Complex.

Vitamin C works in a manner similar to vitamin E, and the two are often combined. It also promotes collagen production that reduces the look of wrinkles. In addition to those above, I recommend SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF, Cellex-C Advanced C Serum, MD SkinCare (now, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare) Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Serum, EmerginC 20% Vitamin C Serum, and Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester Eye Serum.

Green tea improves skin health only when formulated with EGCG (Epigallocatechin gallate), a specific component of green tea, in high concentrations. Try Topix Replenix CF Cream.

Silymarin is derived from the milk thistle plant. It improves skin health and is available in SkinCeuticals Antioxidant Lip Repair.

Polypodium leucotomos is an extract derived from the fern family. It is used for the treatment of sunburn, inhibits other phototoxic reactions, and improves skin health. Before intense sun exposure, such as a day of hiking or skiing, you can take one or two capsules of Heliocare (the formulation’s brand name) an hour prior to sun exposure.

Ergothioneine is a naturally occurring amino acid that is absorbed from consumption of sources such as oyster mushrooms. It improves skin health only when formulated with another antioxidant. Cellex-C Advanced-C Serum contains Vitamin C, ergothioneine, resveratrol, and grapeseed extract.

Dr. Theresa Rebecca Pacheco has served as medical director for cosmetic dermatology at the University of Colorado Denver School of Medicine’s Cosmetic Specialist Clinic since 2006. For more information, contact the University of Colorado Denver Cosmetic Specialists, cucosmetics.com or coloradodermatology.org.