The F Files (Spago) ()

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Littleton native Mark Ferguson unleashed his culinary creations in December at the opening of Spago at the Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch. THE SPAGO executive chef, who trained with master toque Wolfgang Puck, talked turkey – and other food-related issues – with Denver magazine's Lori Midson.

I ARRIVED IN THE WORLD 41 years ago, and lived in Littleton until I turned 18. I went to Fort Lewis College, in Durango, where I got my degree in business administration.

COOKING WAS ALWAYS A HOBBY, so after I graduated from Fort Lewis, I took off for San Francisco in 1989 to pursue my love for cooking at the California Culinary Academy.

I WAS IN THE KITCHEN at Stars for three years in San Francisco under chef Jeremiah Tower, when I met David Robins, another chef at Stars who asked me if I had any interest in going to Las Vegas to help open Spago. I took a chance and moved to Vegas, where I was initially hired as a sous chef. Within a year, I was promoted to chef de cuisine. I was at Spago until 1999, and then left to open Trattoria del Lupo, Wolfgang Puck's Italian restaurant in Las Vegas. I rejoined Spago in 2007.

I TOTALLY BUSTED my butt cooking in kitchens and going to culinary school for 16 hours a day. Cooking was a passion, but I really wanted to be a classically trained chef, even though I honestly thought I'd end up back in Denver selling real estate with my brother.

COOKING WITH WOLFGANG PUCK is unbelievable. He's fun, energetic, and his lust for life is so inspiring. We all have a true family relationship. I work with him – not for him.

I LOVE that our menu at Spago has no boundaries. I have the freedom to cook whatever I want, whenever I want.

EXCEPT Wolfgang won't allow foie gras on the menu. I do believe the production process should be humane. Still, if I had my way, I'd have foie gras all over the menu.

FAST FOOD gets a horrible rap, but if I ever opened up my own fast-food spot, I'd figure out a way to make it all about foie gras.

THE ELEMENTS OF A PERFECT SPAGO PIZZA are great cheese, specifically Parmigiano-Reggiano, fresh mozzarella, a hot, wood-fired oven, fresh herbs, good water, and great olive oil

I REALLY LIKE the hamachi on the Spago menu, because it's so cool to sell the highest quality of sashimi in the Rocky Mountains. Despite not being close to the water, we have the freshest fish you can get.

MY FAVORITE food splurge is white truffles and caviar.

I DON'T UNDERSTAND the obsession with ramps and fiddlehead ferns.

THE WORLD'S MOST UNDERVALUED INGREDIENT is the egg yolk. (It) can enhance any sauce or dish. It's nature's best sauce, next to olive oil.

RANCH DORITOS and Baby Ruth bars are my junk food favorites.

MY REFRIGERATOR IS SPARSE, but I always have fresh-squeezed orange juice, eggs, Wonder Bread and Parmigiano-Reggiano on hand.

THE BEST FOOD CITY IN AMERICA is either New York or San Francisco, although Las Vegas is gaining ground.

IN COLORADO, my favorite restaurant is San Lorenzo, an Italian place in Littleton. Craig D'Alessandro, the chef and owner, is from the East Coast and he's the coolest guy. He has a great attitude, he's totally in it for the food, and even though the kitchen is small, the menu is aggressive.

MY FAVORITE RESTAURANT ANYWHERE is Blue Ribbon in New York at 3 a.m. It's just such a great late-night place with simple, but tasty food.

MY MOST MEMORABLE RESTAURANT EXPERIENCE was at Restaurant Daniel in New York. I went with some friends and we had something like a 12-course tasting menu paired with 15 different wines.

I'D LOVE TO EAT at El Bulli, in Spain, just to say I've been there or at Au Pied de Cochon, in Quebec. (Chef) Martin Picard does the craziest stuff, all with foie gras.

WHITE HEAT, by Marco Pierre White, is my all-time favorite cookbook. Marco was the original culinary pioneer, full of passion.

THERE AREN'T A LOT OF GOOD COOKING SHOWS, but Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations is a great show about food.

IF I WASN'T A CHEF, I'd be a helicopter pilot. I went heli-skiing when I was in British Columbia, Canada and it's just an insane adrenaline rush.

MY CHEF HERO is Marco Pierre White.

YOU'D BE SURPRISED that Wolfgang loves Pink Floyd more than I do.

ON A PERSONAL LEVEL, I'm most proud of my kids, Cayton and Marley.

ON A PROFESSIONAL LEVEL, I'm so happy that I finally made it back home to Colorado. I left to become a chef, and I succeeded. Now I'm back where I want to be – skiing, snowboarding and cooking at Spago.

YOU PROBABLY DON'T KNOW that while I love living and working in the limelight, I'd much rather be home snuggling with my wife near the fireplace.

MY NEXT PROJECT is retirement. I can't wait until I can sleep and play.

Issue: 
Winter 2008
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